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(Failed) Wide leg pants

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After this year’s Me Made May (an Instagram challenge hosted by SoZo during which you pledge to wear at least 1 me-made per day) I’ve noticed that I was badly missing pants in my wardrobe… As a lot of beginner sewist I had fun sewing a lot of skirts and dresses even though I’m usually wearing trousers #beginerfail…
So I had to do something about it and I was in a pants frenzy last summer:

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And free pattern Peppermint’s Wide leg pants was one of my pick. High waist, wide legs (and did I mention it was free? 😉 how could I resist?

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I’m clearly #teampaper for patterns: I don’t like having to print xxx A4 pages, that sometines need to be trimmed on 1 or 2 sides, then having to tape it all (while risking shifts which seems to always happen to me, who knows why!…). Well, you have to work with what you have! So this pattern is composed of 37 pages + 14 pages of instructions (that I usually don’t print, if I can save ink and paper) and there was indeed shifting after taping ^^’

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To avoid surprises (my hips are much wider than my waist and I have a sway back) I decided to sew a toile in a yellow cotton (that I bought a long time ago for a cosplay that I never made, recycling, recycling!)
I graded between the waistline and hips line (size E and G) however the toile was gaping on the back of the waist (as it does on ready to wear pants for me). So I reduce the center back seam by 3-4cm and it was perfect (I forgot to take photo after the modifications). I’m wondering now if the gaping wasn’t also due to me loosing a few cm at the waist (thanks to the jumping rope and plank exercices) but cutting my previous size…

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Once the toile was ok I cut my final fabric: a beautiful rust chambray my Mom got (along with a lot of fabrics) from a tailor’s destash ♥♥♥
I was so happy about my toile and my fabric that I didn’t pay enough attention when cutting: I didn’t align selvedges correctly and one front crotch edge was cut too short -___- I continued anyway thinking that it might not impact the final result that much (spoiler: I was wrong…).

Everything went fine when assembling the pants, that’s another benefit of sewing a toile: you can practice and understand all instructions beforehand. Right before attaching a button and sewing a buttonhole I put it on and it was bad: it seems that an adjusted crotch seam is really important otherwise everything goes up when sitting O__O’
It’s was my first time experiencing such a massive wedgie: I could feel it not only on the back but on the front too… and it’s super inconfortable, oddly enough…  I wore the pants for an afternoon and I quickly gave up so I never sewn the button nor buttonhole, I was so frustrated… This colour suits me so well and I could create super cool outfits!…

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OH WELL! That how we learn! Plus, I think I still have enough chambray to try again, but I’m tempted to sew another pair with a more stretchy fabric which will be more forgiving :p
I’m gonna wait for warmer days though, because I’m like a grandma: I need my calves, ankles, forearms,  and neck to be covered otherwise I’m cold XD so now is not exactly the right time of year.

There’s still one thing bothering me a bit, I feel like, because of the difference between my waist and hips, for a good fit eveywhere, 18cm (7″)  zips are too short. I often need to wiggle my hips in, maybe I don’t leave enough ease at the waistline…
Does it happen to you too?

Mwika

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