Oh my god! A new article on my blog! I feel like I’m writing the same thing for each article so I think I’m gonna accept the fact that I write slowly and stop talking about it ^^’
I’m a slow writter for my me mades but that doesn’t mean I’m not sewing, on the contrary! So today I’m introducing my version of the Bruges jacket from Kommatia Patterns.
I think that, along with Deer & Doe, Kommatia Patterns is the indie pattern brand that I love the most! Their style is urban with original garments and timeless ones. If you don’t know this brand yet go visit their website (plus, some patterns are available to purchase on Makerist and they often do 2€ sales on PDF patterns)!
So when I noticed that Jessica (the creator) was looking for pattern testers for her futur patterns I immediately send her an email. The Bruges jacket was the first pattern she sent us that I was interested in sewing. I knew wich fabric to use: a blue and white jacquard that I found at Vanina Escoubet‘s fabric destock (tip if you live in Paris: don’t hesitate to follow this RTW clothes brand on social media as they often arrange fabrics destock from their previous collections starting at 5€/meter! I’ve found some good deals both times I went there), a tubular white rib knit for the belt and cuffs (bought at Les coupons St Pierre) and an off white cotton popelin (found at a former tailor’s) for the lining.
Pattern testing’s goal is to check what’s wrong and what’s good about pattern tracing but also assembling steps and diagrams without making any changes on the pattern (my dream: no pattern alterations!). Speaking of assembling, I had a hard time with the welt pockets’ indications. As a result, mine are really fragile due to a lack of backing (interfacing) and to the type of fabric that I’ve used (jacquard is really prompt to fraying). I also found difficult to understand how to sew the lining to the belt but I made it work somehow.
And as I wasn’t the only tester to find these steps a bit difficult, Jessica changed texts and added diagrams for these 2 steps on the pattern’s final version.
It was also my first time putting on snaps, so obviously I made a ton of mistakes ^^’
- I bought metal snaps for thick fabrics and they are really difficult to open and close especially with my super fragile jacquard… So I don’t close the pockets ^^’
- I put on one female piece wrong on the collar snap: it was backwards so I just can’t close this one too… ^^’
- As I didn’t own snap pliers yet I installed them with a hammer and I didn’t protect my table enough (the one I use to cut my fabrics on and trace patterns on) so it’s a bit damaged now… ^^’
OH WELL, at least now I know what not to do for next time and as I bought pliers it’ll be easier.
It was also my first time installing a separable zip and it was so easy! So much simpler than invisible zips (I think I’m cursed with those…) and even simpler than normal ones! I need to try again soon!
I’m quite happy with the result! Unfortunately, it’s too cold now to wear it (I’ve sewn it on mid-November but even then it was too cold for me) so I couldn’t show off wearing it yet.
I’ve played with the woven pattern of the jacquard which is of different color on the right and wrong side: so I’ve used the wrong side for the collar, pockets and belt to give the jacket a bit of contrast. I was afraid that I wouldn’t have like wearing this print (I’m still hesitant with prints that aren’t stripes) but I really like it.
The only thing I don’t like about this jacket is its length. With my hips, cropped tops or tops that cover my hips are more flattering on me than this lenght (especially with a knit belt). So, I’m not sure I’ll sew a new version of this pattern for me but I bought the short bomber jacket pattern from Kommatia patterns and I’d like to try it
Pattern: Bruges jacket de chez Kommatia Patterns
Level: Intermediate to expert (according to the fabric choice)
Modifications: None as it was a test:)
Fabric 1: 1m10 of jacquard (width 1m50) Vanina Escoubet
Fabric 2: 30cm of tubular rib knit (width 45cm) Les Coupons St Pierre
Fabric 3: 1m20 of cotton popelin (width 1m50) at a former tailor’s