A few months ago, Bérengère (Fiat Lux) and Clothilde (Couture and clo) showed us (the Fiat Lux patterns’ testers group that I’m lucky enough to be part of) the technical drawing of the secret project they were working on for a few months: M.Gyver’s shorts/ culottes.
I immediately loved the design! The high waist with elastics on the sides only (I’m cursed with zips do maybe elastics will be my redemption), the big pockets. And both the shorts and culottes versions appealed to me!
At first, I thought about sewing the shorts for the summer but I quickly realised that summer won’t be here (in Paris) right away despite being at the end of May. So I sewed the culottes version first.
As usual with Fiat Lux, the instructions and drawings were very clear. New and a bit tricky sewing technics (here the french seams) are explained in details and once you’re used to them the rest is easy.
French seams are a great idea for this pattern specifically (with the front and back legs seams), and the result is a very neat garment on the inside as well which does elevate the final piece a lot.
Yes,despite my impatience I no longer sew troussers without making a toile first! It prevents a lot of desapointment and usless loss of nice fabric.
So I printed the pattern (only available in French and on PDF) and grade cut between a size 42 (at the waist) and a size 46 (at the hips) like I always do. I quickly sewed the muslin in basic cotton and I noticed a few things:
- I needed to change the rise, the crotch lenght wasn’t big enough for a confortable wear (espacially when sitting down…). So I cut along the adjustments ligns and added 2cm for ease and for the belt to sit nicely on my waist.
- Being used to grade between my waist and hips that’s what I did here but I ended up with a belt that was a bit tight for my hips even with the elastics. So, for the first time, I could sew the entire thing in 1 size, brilliant! I could avoid all these troubles by reading the instructions as it was indicated that we only needed the hips size for this pattern, oh well…
I shoped in my hugh stash (that needs some organising) for the right fabric and I chose a teal (polyester and rayon) crêpe with a heavy but stil fluid drape that I bought to Jess the past summer.
I’m really happy with this choice of fabric as it doesn’t wrinkle much and keeps its shape which gives a crisp effect to the culottes, with enough drape for fluid movements when you walk in it. This fabric was a bit tricky to work with as it contains a bit of stretch and is a bit thick. But thanks to the really helpful instruction tips I was able to avoid unecessary bulk in some area (the crotch for instance ^^’). I think I’ll take a thinner fabric for my next version.
With the current temperatures in Paris, I’m glad that I chose the culottes version with my thick fabric! I could wear them a lot and it’s a delight to wear them! I think I’ll adopt elastic waist for my next me made pants (I have a few patterns in mind). And as the elastics are only on the sides there’s no bulk of fabric on the bum and it highlights this area beautifully as a result! I’m not a fan of back photos but I totally changed my mind when I saw the ones with M.Gyver!
(When you try weird poses XD)